On Friday 13 September, Concrete Fashion attended Kilian Kerner’s S/S14 Red Carpet Collection showcase at the Waldorf Hilton, London. It was the German designer’s first ever UK assembly and suffice it to say, Kilian did not disappoint. Initial expectations of the usual runway extravaganza were at large, however these were soon dismissed when doors were opened and the “oos!” and “aahs!” began.
Photo: Madz Abbasi
Six live models posed in groups with mannequins around the room, all of whom were clothed in Kerner’s stunning pieces, as Greg Foat played light jazz on a grand piano. The layout of Kerner’s showcase was such that viewers were able to walk around and admire his collection close-up and from all angles.
One of the central colours of the collection was gold; a risky colour for Spring/Summer. However, the Oscar worthy gowns used white accents to lighten the tone of the dresses. One of the boldest golden creations was the scalloped crop top, which almost looked solid to the touch, paired with an over the top, ballerina-esque full length skirt. Modernising the idea of the dress, the crop top added the 90s twist we’re so used to seeing on the high street. A knee length gold shift dress was also a focal point of the collection, again modernising a classic, this time the 60s shift.
Kerner continued the 90s grunge trend via an amalgamation of statement jewellery – all silver and gold – in which the models were decked. This included chokers intertwined with thick and delicate chains as well as large pearls and jewels; wrist cuffs with multi-coloured, flower-shaped jewels and crystal ear cuffs. A jaw-dropping piece in the collection was a backwards silver necklace. The necklace adorned with both round and tear-drop pearls and numerous white crystals, all of which surrounded a single blue crystal.
Seemingly, Kerner loves a throwback and there were touches of the 80s too. Not a shoulder pad in sight, but raised and heavily structured shoulders featured on several of the dresses, taking them from overly girly to tailored and strong.
The collection itself, being made up of showy red carpet dresses cleverly avoided looking too pretty-pretty through the use of heavy, solid fabrics and this structured tailoring.
Hair and makeup was kept minimalistic so as not to distract from the collection itself. Models had a deep side parting with their hair tucked behind their ears and pulled back into a sleek pony-tail at the nape of the neck. Their cheekbones were lightly dusted with bronzer and they wore a thin coat of mascara and brown eyeliner.
The whole collection played with what our idea of ‘pretty’ and ‘elegance’ really is. From the ballerina skirt, to the structure lines of the fitted shift dresses, Kerner’s creativity and imagination knows no bounds.